Wristwatch restoration, servicing and repair

Posts Tagged ‘Valjoux’

Girard-Perregaux Olimpico (Valjoux Cal. 726)…

Here’s a great looking chronograph well worthy of some TLC, a Girard-Perregaux Olimpico.

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Girard-Perregeaux introduced the Olimpico range to commemorate the Olympic games (Olimpico means Olympics in Spanish/Italian), adding new models to the range every 4 years. Based on the case style and the calibre inside, I would date the watch in this post to either 1972 or 1976.

Exactly when the first Olimpico model appeared is open to speculation, but judging by the style of the early models in this Olimpico group shot, I would guess some time in the late 1950’s?

The majority of the vintage models were built around Valjoux calibres, with the exception of the 1968 offerings which were powered by an Excelsior Park Cal. 40. Here’s one of them;

Curiously there were no models created for the 1980 and ’84 Olympics, but the model was back in the line-up for the 1988, powered by the ubiquitous Valjoux Cal. 7750. Subsequent models were added for the 1992 and ’96 Olympics, the latter being one of the Laureato chronographs, and the first to feature an in-house calibre, the cal. 3170.

Unfortunately, the 1996 model marked the end of the line for the Olimpico range, as the International Olympic Committee took a dim view of any unlicenced use of the term ‘Olympic’ …and no doubt demanded a hefty fee for any further use.

The watch in this post arrived in running condition, but the second and 12 hour registers on the chronograph weren’t resetting properly. I was hopeful that a movement service would fix the problems.

Opening the caseback revealed a Valjoux Cal. 726 in excellent condition, and sure enough, after a service, the movement was back up and running with all the chronograph functions working properly again.

Before re-assembly, the case was cleaned, the top of the case re-brushed, and the crystal polished to finish the job.

You can read more about Girard-Perregaux, and see their current models here.

Rich.

** Many thanks to Tony Willer for letting me feature his watch on the blog. **


Le Marc Chronomaster (Valjoux Cal. 7733)…

Though the brand is probably unfamiliar, regular readers may well recognise the model name and look of this watch.

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The watch is unmistakably a Nivada / Croton Chronomaster which has been re-branded (see here for an example). Looking at the dial print it is obvious that the model name and minute track were printed together, and a space was left for the brand – you can clearly see from the quality and clarity of the print that the “Le Marc 100” has been added later.

Aside from a few references to dress watches, and some dubious links to replica watches, there is very little to be found about Le Marc online. If anyone has any more information about Le Marc I’d be interested to hear from you.

It’s pure speculation on my part, but did Nivada/Croton agree to produce a number of watches for other brands when they were struggling financially in the 1970’s? It seems that Le Marc weren’t the only company involved as here is another example, this time a ‘Sussex’, another brand with no notable history.

The watch in this post arrived in running condition, but the chronograph wasn’t working at all. On opening the watch (and revealing a Croton branded Valjoux cal. 7733), the problem was immediately obvious, the screws for the operating and reset levers were both broken.

A similar thing had happened to a Breitling chronograph that I worked on recently (see here), and I can only assume that the buttons had been pressed so hard by the previous owner that the screw heads broke off…. yikes!

Thankfully, the fix is pretty straight forward once the watch has been disassembled. The broken shafts of the screws are removed using a broken screw extractor. I explained how that tool works in this post for anyone who is interested.

The watch also had a couple of other issues,  the lume in the hands had cracked and needed to be renewed, and the bezel was stuck. In most cases friction bezels are held in place by a thin wire underneath which clips over a lip on the top edge of the case. The wire has two main functions, it stops the bezel popping off, and it provides some tension to stop the bezel from turning too freely.

The only way to adjust the fit and function of the bezel is to bend the wire, which often involves a lot of trial and error. Too much adjustment and the bezel no longer snaps into place, or it fits, but is too tight (or loose). It can be time consuming to get it just right.

With all the problems ironed out and the movement serviced, the case was cleaned and the crystal polished to finish the job. The alignment of the ’30’ figure on the bezel is also curious on this watch, I’ve never seen that before.

Rich.

** Many thanks to Richard Visser for letting me feature is his watch on the blog. **


Breitling Datora (Valjoux Cal. 7734)…

Here’s a watch with a real 1970’s flavour, a Breitling Datora.

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During the 1970’s Breitling released a range of watches with very striking designs, including some of the Chrono-Matic models and several models in the Datora line.  All of the Datora models were fitted with a calibre widely used in this period, the Valjoux cal. 7734 cam lever chronograph – one thing I’ve noticed is that they used the version with the 45 minute register on all Datoras, rather than the more commonly seen 30 minute version. Pictured below are some of the other Datora models.

The watch was running on arrival and the chronograph would start and stop but couldn’t be reset. A cursory look at the movement quickly revealed the problem: the screw holding the reset lever in place had broken off, probably as a result of being pressed too hard.

The eagle-eyed amongst you may have noticed in the first picture that two of the hour markers were missing from the dial. Thankfully they were still rattling around the dial, and closer inspection revealed that they had both been unsuccessfully glued in the past (see inset).

Apart from the broken screw, there was nothing else wrong with the movement, so after servicing, the hour markers were re-attached, the case was cleaned, and a new crystal fitted.

As the paint on the minute register hand was also damaged, the centre sweep second and minute register hands were repainted to match the red highlights in the dial. Here is the result.

Rich.

** Many thanks to Tjeerd Jellema for letting me feature his watch on the blog. **


Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster (Valjoux Cal. 23)….

Arriving in a sorry looking state, this Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster certainly needed a bit of TLC.

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The Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster is one of my favourite watches and I’ve written a couple of posts about them in the past, this one containing information about the company and the various Chronomaster models. I won’t miss another chance to include a link to this excellent post on the website Inventit Et Fecit too, which gives a comprehensive history on the model.

The movement inside the watch this time was one of the best found in Chronomasters, a Valjoux cal. 23. The movement was in good cosmetic shape and needed little more than a service.

Obviously the watch was missing some parts, namely the crown and stem and the main hands. These parts would have been hard to find, particularly the correct hands, but thankfully they were included in a zip-loc bag along with the watch. The hands were in poor shape though and needed to be completely repainted and re-lumed.

Here is the watch after the service and cosmetic work, and fitting a new crystal.

While this watch was in for repair, I also had two other Nivada chronographs to service, which gave me a rare chance to take this group shot.

The watch at the top of the picture is a Nivada Chronoking, which is rarer than the Chronomaster. Very similar in style and still powered by a Valjoux cal. 23, but in a slightly larger case.

The watch on the bottom left is one of the first models from the early 1960’s, distinguishable by its broad-arrow style hands. This watch is powered by a Valjoux cal. 92.

An interesting trio.

Rich.

** Many thanks to Steve Gillman for letting me feature his watch on the blog. **


Sicura Bullhead Chronograph (Valjoux Cal. 7734)…

Found hiding in a watch lot purchased by the owner, this 1970’s Sicura had obviously had a tough life.

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Sicura was started in the early 1960’s by Ernest Schneider, a pilot and micro-electronics specialist. Throughout the 1960’s and 70’s the company developed a wide range of diver’s watches, chronographs, world time watches, and also a range of mechanical digital, or ‘jump hour’ watches, often with funky styling (this one even has a built in light.)

The company grew quickly, offering models aimed mainly at the lower end of the market, which proved to be successful even when quartz watches appeared on the scene.

By the end of the 1970’s the quartz revolution had really taken hold, damaging the prospects of many long established watch manufacturers. Breitling was one such company who, despite offering high quality watches, were on the lookout for a buyer. Ernest Schneider recognised the potential of the renowned brand and stepped up to rescue Breitling. Though the companies remained completely separate, you will often see Sicura linked with Breitling (often in a bid to increase the perceived value of a Sicura!)

The majority of Sicura’s chrongraphs were fitted with pin lever calibres, like the EB cal. 8420, but during the 1970’s some models were fitted with higher quality Valjoux calibres. The watch in this post is one of them, fitted with a Valjoux cal. 7734 in this case.

The movement was intact and relatively clean, it just needed a service to bring it back to full working order. The majority of the work on this watch was on the case.

As you may have noticed in the first picture, the watch was missing both pushers, the crystal was cracked, and the crown had seen better days. Amazingly the chrome plated case had survived more or less intact with just minor wear through on the back.

The first problem I encountered was with the pushers. Just like the Zodiac I wrote about recently (see here), the large size of the case meant that standard pushers were too short to reach the movement. A different solution was needed this time as the pushers on this watch weren’t the “screw-in”, but the “drive-in” type.  With screw-in pushers the central screw can be unscrewed from the pusher head and modified or replaced, but that wasn’t the case here as drive-in pushers are often sealed units.

The solution was to make two end caps for the pushers to extend their reach. Not the most elegant of solutions, but effective all the same.

The second problem to overcome was with the crystal. Like the Zodiac chronograph, this is another large watch with a very large glass, and just like the Zodiac, the crystal is secured in the case by the tachymeter ring around the dial which doubles as a tension ring.

Ordinarily the diameter of the old crystal is measured and a new crystal is ordered in the same size. However, at 37.6mm, the crystal in this watch is bigger than the largest tension ring crystal commercially available. The solution was to order a different kind of crystal and cut a lip into the inner edge for the tachymeter ring, effectively converting it into a tension ring crystal. The size of the lip had to be exactly right, too deep and the tension ring wouldn’t work and crystal would fall out, too shallow and it would crack when pressed in.

All went well, and with the casing problems solved and the movement serviced, fitting a new crown finished the job.

If you are a fan of 1970’s Bullhead chronographs, you may be interested in this post that I wrote a couple of years ago.

Rich.

** Many thanks to Jürgen Kamerman for letting me feature his watch on the blog. **


V.I.P. Memosail (Valjoux Cal. 7737)…

Still in use by a regular sailor this Memosail had one taken one wave too many.

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The owner first noticed condensation appearing inside the watch in May and the watch found its way to me in October. Opening the caseback I was amazed how much rust had developed in such a short amount of time.

The movement inside this watch is a Valjoux cal. 7737 which is modified version of the Valjoux cal. 7733/34. I explained the modifications to the base calibre in a previous post, interested parties can read that post here.

Close inspection of the dial also revealed that the water had got under the edges of the dial paint too.

In some cases, like the Zenith Surf that I wrote about recently, you can get lucky and only the outer parts of the movement are affected, but when the dial is damaged that is a sign that water has made its way right through the watch, and sure enough, digging further into the movement wasn’t a pretty sight.

In cases like this it would be best to order a new part, but specific parts for the cal. 7737 aren’t so easy to find these days, so the only option was to clean up and polish the chronograph heart as much as possible, and repair the pivot using a Jacot tool.

A Jacot tool is used to repair and refinish pivots in clocks and watches. It would be much too long a post to include a detailed description of how it works, but here is a picture of it.

The wheel with the damaged pivot is mounted in the tool and the bow on the left is used to spin the wheel back and forth by hand while working on the pivot with a pivot file or burnisher.

With the rust removed and the rest of the movement serviced, it was back up and running again. The last thing to do was some repair work on the dial. Without a compete repaint it will never be perfect, but the repair isn’t noticeable in daily use.

Rich.

** Many thanks to Richard Littlewood for letting me feature his watch on the blog. **


Dugena Chronograph (Valjoux Cal. 7733)…

There has been quite a few Valjoux powered chronographs on the blog, and here is another one, this time from Dugena.

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Dugena are a German watch company with over a 100 year history. They were originally part of the ‘Union Horlogere’, a watchmakers guild founded in Switzerland in 1900, but after merging with the company Glashütten Alpina in 1917 they traded under the name Alpina as part of the ‘Deutsche Uhrmachergenossenschaft’ (German Watchmakers Guild).

The company changed their name back to Dugena in 1942, and during the 1970’s they produced a number of good quality divers watches, one of the most interesting being this Watertrip model with a mechanical depth meter.

The company is still trading today, but like many other well respected brands from the past, the mechanical part of the range has gone and the company only produces quartz watches these days. You can visit their website here.

When disassembling this watch I discovered an unexpected problem, the crystal was cracked all around the base. Though this isn’t ordinarily a problem and is quickly solved by fitting a new crystal, on this watch it was a potential problem as the crystal has a step on the outside to hold the bezel in place.

Generally these friction bezels are pressed over a lip on the upper edge of the case and a thin wire underneath provides tension to stop them from turning unintentionally. I was prepared for a long search for a replacement crystal as this isn’t a model seen regularly, but I was lucky to find one in a relatively short time.

Mechanically the movement was in good condition but the chronograph didn’t work and would stop working as soon as the minute counter was due to advance. On closer inspection I could see that someone had moved all the eccentric screws and the meshing depths were all wrong for the chronograph wheels. Aside from making minor adjustments there should be little need to alter the position of the eccentric screws during a regular service.

After a full service for the movement and setting up the chronograph mechanism properly again it was on to the cosmetic issues. The hands and dial markers were repainted and the bezel dot was repainted and lacquered. After cleaning the case, fitting the new crystal and re-assembling, here is the result.

Rich.

** Many thanks to Menno van Rij for letting me feature his watch on the blog. **


Welsbro Chronograph (Valjoux Cal. 7736)…

Continuing to ride my ‘blurry eBay picture’ luck, I was tempted by this Welsbro chronograph.

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Though not a recognised brand name, I had restored another Welsbro chronograph in the past (see that post here), so I knew that there was a good chance that the movement inside would be of decent quality. When it arrived I wasn’t disappointed, the crystal was damaged and the case had some scratches, but the dial and hands underneath were in perfect condition.

… and the good news continued as opening the caseback revealed a nice clean Valjoux cal. 7736.

You’ll notice in the picture above that the case threads are covered in a black tar-like ‘goo’ which, believe it or not, used to be the caseback gasket. You see this quite often on vintage watches, it is caused by the sealant used on the caseback gasket. After a couple of decades the rubber seems to break down due to a chemical reaction between the two. If you’ve ever experienced this stuff you’ll know just how horrible it is, it seems to get everywhere and is impossible to remove without using solvent. Thankfully it hadn’t found its way onto the movement this time.

The Valjoux cal. 7736 is the big brother of the Valjoux 7733/4 calibres which appear quite regularly on the blog. The difference between the calibres is that the 7736 has an additional hour register which allows the timing of events up to 12hrs.

Comparing the cal. 7736 to a cal. 7734 they are visually very similar, with just an additional lever underneath the cam. Like many other chronograph calibres, the parts for the 12hr register are on the dial side of the movement.

The picture above shows the fully assembled mechanism, and highlighted is the reset hammer which moves across and sets the subdial back to zero when the reset button is pressed. The following picture shows the mechanism with the cover plate removed.

You can see that the hour recording runner is powered directly from the mainspring barrel, and also pictured is the stop lever which is lifted from the runner when the chronograph is engaged, allowing it to turn along with the mainspring barrel. When disengaged, the stop lever arrests the runner and under the gear on the mainspring barrel arbor is a friction washer so the barrel can continue to rotate unimpeded.

The watch needed little more than a service and a clean up this time, so here’s the finished product after fitting a new crystal and doing some refinishing work on the case.

Rich.